VOL. 38 | NO. 27 | Friday, July 4, 2014
Planning the perfect Nashville holiday dining weekend
A few weeks ago, The Wall Street Journal took readers on a whirlwind weekend tour of Nashville visiting favorites, from The Pancake Pantry to Mas Tacos.
But as a resident, I’d like to be a tourist in town for 36 hours just to catch up on all the new restaurants.
This list – as with most 36-hour collections – happens in a perfect world where stars align and everyone gets a reservation. It’s when our bellies never get too full and pocketbooks are never empty. It’s vacation.
I’ve included just new or timely restaurants in town, and I’ve spared you the boring details about stopping by the dry cleaners along the way.
What follows is my plan for the July 4 weekend:
Friday, July 4
10 a.m. – The Nashville Farmers Market, 900 Rosa L Parks Blvd., for The Peach Truck peaches
The heart of peach season beats strong now, so take advantage of it by stopping for a sack of Pearson Farm peaches from The Peach Truck stand at the Farmers’ Market.
This makes the third season Stephen and Jessica Rose have provided us with Georgia peaches, and I don’t know if any endeavor has inspired more creativity in so many kitchens. I’ve seen Peach-topped pavlova at Margot Café and Bar, as well as grilled quail with pickled peaches and peach pastries at Sweet 16th Bakery.
Courtney Webb even held a peach-themed Potluck at her shop, Hey Rooster General Store.
So after picking up peaches to take home, head over to the Bella Nashville counter in the Market House to split a peach pizza with pork and garlic scapes for brunch.
Noon – Music City Hot Chicken Festival, East Park, 700 Woodland Street
Even with more vendors this year, the lines will still be long and the wait worth it. So you might as well find a Yazoo beer (this year you’ll be able to walk through the festival with drinks “free range” rather than huddle up in a designated beer tent) and pick you path to fiery bliss.
After the chicken, I find it’s best to cool the palate with ice cream from Pied Piper Creamery, which also will be on-hand at the festival. Then, nap.
7 p.m. – Adele’s, 1210 McGavock St.
Adele's
-- SubmittedAdele’s, the new restaurant in the Gulch from nationally celebrated Chef Jonathan Waxman, will be open on July 4. So snag a table or seat at the bar if you can in the bright space with open kitchen. Though I hear the menu changes both to reflect seasonality and still may be changing, you can look for a few of Waxman’s signatures such as oak fire and wood oven roasted fish, chicken, steak and vegetables.
I’m thrilled Waxman chose Nashville for his latest venture, but I’m also happy to see Executive Chef Matt Davidson back in a Music City kitchen. The former sous chef at Margot Café and Bar has returned after spending some time working in San Francisco.
After dinner, take a walk toward downtown or find a rooftop patio to perch for watching the fireworks.
Saturday
9 a.m. – Biscuit Love, biscuitlovetruck.com
What’s not to love about Biscuit Love. Karl and Sarah Worley will soon be adding a brick-and-mortar restaurant, Biscuit Love Brunch, in The Gulch.
-- SubmittedThough not technically new, this truck’s owners made a new announcement recently, so I recommend tracking down this truck before life gets even busier for owners Karl and Sarah Worley.
The pair will soon open a brick-and-mortar restaurant in the Gulch called Biscuit Love Brunch, which will include a grab-and-go pastry counter, late-night menu and John’s Ham Bar, which will feature regional country hams and beaten biscuits.
I love that the Worley’s will help preserve the beaten biscuit and country ham tradition, which in more recent years has seemed in danger of fading away.
1 p.m. – Thai Esane, 907 12th Ave. S.
Two of my favorite food-loving friends – Jesse Goldstein of Food Sheriff Consumable Branding and Vivek Surti of Vivek’s Epicurean Adventures – have raved about this newly opened spot in the former 12th South Bistro location near the Gulch.
The owners, Tim Singto and his wife Nina Sayasack, also own Antioch’s King Market, which has an excellent reputation, and many of the same dishes can be found on the new restaurant’s menu.
8 p.m. – Sinema Restaurant & Bar
The new spot in the old Melrose Theatre, which originally opened in 1942, restores the space to its former grandeur but in hip, modern ways.
The main dining room at Sinema.
-- Photos Courtesy Of Anthony MatulaI recommend starting with a drink at the downstairs bar in front of the wall of original mirrors for people watching before heading up the grand, curved staircase to the upstairs lounge for a bite and to check out the rock photography by Robert Knight.
Top Chef alum Dale Levitski relocated to Nashville from Chicago to lead the kitchen, and you’ll find “concessions” of hot buttered prawns (rather than popcorn) to caviar service with accoutrement.
After snacks or dinner downstairs and perhaps the Sugar Plate for dessert, you should probably head home.
Yesterday’s peaches are waiting.
Peach Icebox Cake
Serves 10-12
Simple flavors combine to make something magical with this no-bake “cake.” Best when made in advance, this peach icebox cake is sure to be the stand-out of any warm weather affair. It can be made in a large cake pan and served by the slice or prepared in a glass trifle dish and simply scooped out to enjoy.
6 fresh peaches
3 cups heavy cream
8 ounces mascarpone cheese
1 container (5.3-ounce) vanilla Greek yogurt
3⁄4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon pure almond extract
1 box graham crackers
Using an electric mixer, whip the cream, sugar, vanilla and almond extract until stiff peaks form. Set aside. In a medium mixing bowl, combine mascarpone cheese and yogurt with an electric mixer until smooth. Fold into whipped cream and set aside.
Wash and pit the peaches and slice into thin (1/8 inch) slices.
Start assembling your icebox cake by spreading a thin layer of cream mixture along the bottom of a trifle dish. Cover the cream with a single layer of graham crackers and add a layer of peach slices to completely cover the crackers. Repeat this process 5-6 times, ending with cream on top. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours (preferably overnight). Serve ice cold.
*In the food business, being “in the weeds” means being super busy. And that’s also how we would describe Nashville’s booming restaurant scene. In this column, Jennifer Justus, journalist, author and food culture writer, keeps us up to date on food, dining out and trends with bi-weekly reports from the table.