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VOL. 47 | NO. 51 | Friday, December 15, 2023

Holidays too much? Time for a mini vacation

There’s no shortage of nearby day trips, from daring to relaxing

By various Ledger writers

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Make no mistake … the restlessness will set in. It might come after the craziness of the holidays or right in the middle. Maybe it’ll be when you realize you need to burn some vacation time before it’s too late. Or maybe you just haven’t logged enough time behind a wheel and outside your house lately.

We get it. That’s why we’ve asked Ledger contributors to think about where they’ve been, where they’d go and what they’d do if they had a few days of their own accord to travel in December and January. Some options are adventurous, some absurd. Others are restorative or exploring being a tourist in your own hometown.

All are within a few hours’ drive of most Middle and East Tennesseans and might even unlock your own sense of “get up and go” before 2023 has got up and went.

A road trip in the sky

I was shrugging off my backpack in a diner somewhere off the base of Mount LeConte in Sevier County and overheard a Cherokee man and his Anglo companion planning a motorcycle trip on the Cherohala Skyway to ride the Tail of the Dragon.

Tail of the Dragon? What is this madness? And where do I find it?

Life’s twists and turns are nothing compared to this 11-mile, 313-curve stretch of road.

-- Photographs Provided

I love Type 2 fun, the kind that might include a slight risk of death. A nail-biting helicopter ride into a remote river canyon near the Badlands? Sure!

Sinking my canoe in a suck in the Rio Grande on Day Two of a two-week trip? Worked out great – now I’m in the middle seat in someone else’s canoe, like Cleopatra on the Nile!

Broken rib on the first day of a 10-day, 400-mile bikepack across Missouri? I’m not a quitter – that’s why they invented Vicodin.

Yeah, so why not? Why not the 11-mile, 318-turn Tail of the Dragon?

The Tail of the Dragon is just the daredevil portion of the longer Cherohala Skyway, which runs from Robbinsville, North Carolina, to Tellico Plains, Tennessee. The road in North Carolina winds up and over 5,400-foot mountains for 18 miles, then crosses the Tennessee border and descends.

A word of caution: The Dragon is a mecca for overconfident motorcyclists and drivers. There have been many fatalities on that stretch over the years, and parts from wrecked motorcycles hang as a warning to all on the “Tree of Shame” at the Deal’s Gap Motorcycle Resort.

One rule for this road: Don’t cross the double yellow lines that divide this treacherous, two-lane track. Almost all the curves are blind, meaning there’s no way to tell what’s coming from the other direction.

The Cherohala is not as widely known or as heavily traveled as Smokies routes Gatlinburg and Newfound Gap. The road was proposed and developed through the area’s timber forest in the 1950s after logging ceased.

Before logging, it had been Cherokee land; the Eastern Band of Cherokee reserve is just off the Skyway’s North Carolina terminus. Nearby place names such as Tulula and Nantahala are a reminder of its past.

Since you’re already in The Smokies, visit some other beauty spots. Clingman’s Dome is the third highest peak east of the Mississippi River and especially good for families. The sightlines are so good that the Cherokee used it as a fort.

Nearby is Newfound Gap, a steep road with plenty of turnouts for stopping to take in the spectacular view. Photos don’t do it justice, but you take them anyway.

– Nicki Pendleton Wood

Moss gathers at Cryptid Cafe

Nestled in the heart of Middle Tennessee, the enchanting Cryptid Cafe in Moss, Tennessee, is a hidden gem that combines the coziness of a coffee shop with a twist of the unusual.

Located at 7965 Clay County Highway (open 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Friday-Sunday), about 15 miles east of Red Boiling Springs, Cryptid Cafe serves as a must-visit destination for those seeking an offbeat adventure, complete with a fun collection of “Weird Cuties,” an array of themed merchandise that includes everything from quirky mugs (see: “Bigfoot in jorts”) to themed T-shirts. It’s the perfect place to find a one-of-a-kind souvenir to remember your visit.

Need a mug featuring Bigfoot in jorts? Cryptid Cafe has you covered.

-- Photograph Provided

But it’s not just the merchandise that makes Cryptid Cafe special; it’s the people behind it. The proprietors, Colleen and Brian, managed bustling restaurants in Nashville for years until their desire for a more serene and natural lifestyle led them to Moss in 2017.

Their love for the area’s natural beauty prompted them to make it their permanent home. In addition to Instagrammable food and handcrafted coffee, Cryptid Cafe also offers DIY repurposing and crafting classes, encouraging visitors to embrace an eco-conscious lifestyle.

One unique feature of Cryptid Cafe is the option to enjoy freshly steamed camping meals made with real ingredients over an open fire. These meals are prepared daily, allowing visitors to take them back to their campsite and reheat them over a campfire with ease. It’s a hassle-free way to savor delicious outdoor cuisine.

Speaking of camping, the nearby Getaway Dale Hollow (2493 Moss Arcot Road, Celina, TN 38551) offers a modern twist with its glamping options. This concept hotel boasts tiny house cabins designed to provide an urban escape while maintaining essential amenities. Perfect for city tourists seeking a quick getaway, Getaway Dale Hollow offers an ideal blend of comfort and nature. Additionally, there are picturesque hiking trails located on the property, providing ample opportunities to connect with the great outdoors.

Nature enthusiasts also will appreciate the nearby Pleasant Grove Recreation Area by Dale Hollow Lake (1170 Cedar Hill Rd, Celina), fondly referred to as “the swinging bridge” by locals. This destination offers a suspension bridge connecting a small island, where one can explore and even encounter bald eagles. During the summer, it transforms into an idyllic spot for swimming and relaxation.

Another hiking option in the vicinity is “The Winding Stairs” in nearby Lafayette (655 Nature Trail Way). While offering a cool hiking experience, it’s important to note that the trail’s difficulty can vary depending on conditions – especially in winter.

For a taste of local culture, neighboring Gainesboro has been experiencing growth and boasts amazing restaurants, including The Stolen Coin Oyster Bar & Bistro (110 S. Main Street) a local favorite. Bonus: A modern art museum is set to open there in the spring, adding to the town’s appeal.

Keep in mind most local establishments keep limited weekday hours, making weekends the ideal time to experience the area’s charm and beauty.

– Cara Baker Davis

Where the rubber meets bluegrass

If you’ve only got a couple of days for your vacation getaway, check out Bowling Green, Kentucky. An hour north of Nashville and a scenic 3-3/12 hour run from Knoxville or Chattanooga, the largest city in South Central Kentucky is home to a number of major attractions to fill your time.

The National Corvette Museum and its nearby NCM Motorsports Park are at the top of the must-see, human-made attractions.

The museum boasts more than 80 Vettes from all eras and is open year-round, except for a few holidays. The Bowling Green assembly tour is currently open but will be suspended beginning Feb. 5 for manufacturing upgrades, but the museum tours will be unaffected.

Go to https://www.corvettemuseum.org/ for more information. And see https://www.visitbgky.com/ for other things to do.

If you prefer Mother Nature’s attractions, take a 30-minute drive up the interstate to Mammoth Cave National Park, the world’s longest known cave system. Boasting stunning views of life underground, the park is open year-round but times and dates for the numerous tours should be planned in advance. Go to https://www.nps.gov/maca/index.htm for information.

– Tom Wood

Recharging in the Smokies

Our two-person family spends a lot of time in motion, as I work primarily in the hospitality industry and my husband crisscrosses the country driving for a touring country artist.

So when we get the rare opportunity to just stop the world for a few days, we head to Gatlinburg to enjoy some downtime between the rush of the holidays and the busyness of the new year.

Whether you go for mountain views or the all-you-can-eat pancakes, Gatlinburg is a treat in winter.

-- Photograph Provided By Tennessee Tourism

Most recently, we rented a cabin for a few nights, and our wishlist for it was simple: a hot tub, a fireplace and a mountain view. We scored all of these with ease, and at a reduced rate since it’s not peak booking season.

If you visit the area frequently, it’s fun to cruise down the main drag of town just to see if anything new has popped up since the last trip. But we’re also “off the beaten path” people, so there’s equal joy in grabbing pizza and beers at Gatlinburg Brewing Company (458 Parkway), then stocking up at a grocery store and heading back to the cabin and aforementioned hot tub.

The next day started slow, with coffee on the deck of the cabin and no time-crunched schedule to keep, outside of one dictated by hunger. Lunch was an easy decision: Fox & Parrot Tavern (1065 Glades Road), a fabulous British pub we stumbled upon when we were in the area for our honeymoon, and we make sure and go back every chance we get.

Sufficiently full, we headed out on a drive, and the Smoky Mountains in December and January is an excellent option because it’s not crowded. On this day, we chose a three-hour spin along Cades Cove Loop, exceptional for its lack of tailgaters. We stopped often for photos, as there’s just so much history. And the views are breathtaking.

As we headed back into town, we decided to stop in at Smoky Mountain Brewing Company (1004 Parkway #501) for dinner before calling it a night.

We started our last full, little more touristy day with a late breakfast at Crockett’s Breakfast Camp (1103 Parkway) before driving up into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It doesn’t matter how many times I visit, I always want to stop at every overlook and just take in the views.

Once in town, we found a place to park so we could walk up and down part of the main strip. We sampled some moonshine at Ole Smoky Distillery, decided to check out the Hollywood Star Cars Museum and wandered around the Mountain Mall.

We headed over to the Wild Bear Tavern (4236 Parkway, Pigeon Forge) for some German food, where we shared a sausage sampler, German potato salad and finished with Apfelstrudel (not a typo).

Back to the cabin for the final night, we gave into our “road warrior” ways and got mostly packed up for an easy out the next morning. We’re never ready to leave, but while responsibility and life beckons us back home, I’m always so thankful for these few days to reset before the year really gets going.

– Denise Mattox

No place like home(town)...

For me, any trip, even to a smaller destination, will involve some time spent in its urban center. I’m an unapologetic townie, something that goes back to my childhood in Knoxville. And, a fair number of years later and after stints in cities as large as Los Angeles, I still am drawn to the sights and sounds of a city’s core.

With apologies to Nashville and Chattanooga, both of which have glorious downtowns, I’ll stick to some Knoxville memories and attractions here. As a child, downtown meant an outing for new school clothes, a fancy (to me) lunch and, quite possibly, a bag of treats.

Events would begin with parking in the big (again, to me) parking deck behind Gay Street, then into the J.C. Penney, where we’d ride the elevator. No normal lift this, it was populated by a nice lady who hand-operated the metal grate, pressed the buttons and wanted to know what a young man such as myself was shopping for that day.

After the errands were done, we had lunch either at the Kress or Woolworth lunch counter or – if I’d been quite well behaved – the S&W Cafeteria. The organist, the Art Deco surroundings, the nice gentleman who could carry several big trays on his arms, the booths in alcoves … magical. (And now you can get your hair done there!)

These businesses are gone, but the buildings are still there to admire. To learn about them and much more, pop into the East Tennessee Historical Society across from the Tennessee Theatre (and join, it’s a great value). Stroll through Krutch Park and Market Square, enjoy the sights and sounds of the season. Take in a movie, have a meal. Do some shopping, grab a coffee. Need more ideas? Use this handy guide generated by the Downtown Knoxville Alliance (www.downtownknoxville.org/guide/)

– Joe Morris

Falling for North Georgia

When we moved to Florida in the late 1960s, my dad loved taking us on “long weekend” journeys to explore our new home state. Sandwiching vacation days Friday and Monday around the weekend, we’d crisscross the state – from Cypress Gardens (now Legoland) to Busch Gardens, from St. Augustine to the Everglades, from the Panhandle to the Keys. Same thing when we moved to Atlanta a few years later – we spent weekends traveling the Peach State from the Atlantic coast to the north Georgia mountains.

One of our long weekend sojourns was to Dahlonega, a small town at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains that is noted as the site of the first major U.S. gold rush. The quaint city reminded Dad of his youth, and I recall visiting the Gold Museum before we panned streambeds for gold (didn’t find nary a nugget). A few years ago, after publishing my first novel, I returned to the picturesque town for the Dahlonega Literary Festival and was reminded of my youthful visit with our family.

About 4½ hours (236 miles) from Nashville, Dahlonega is still a great “long weekend” destination for your family with year-round events and things to do for all ages.

Named as “Georgia’s best small town” by Southern Living in 2023, the first eye-grabber is the lush outdoors, ranging from spectacular mountain views and roaring waterfalls to other outdoor activities like hiking in the nearby Chattahoochee National Forest, fishing and boating.

Dahlonega bills itself as the heart of Georgia’s wine country with eight wineries and a dozen wine-tasting rooms. Tours and wine trails are popular with visitors. Also, several craft breweries and distilleries call the region home.

March’s Literary Festival, which annually attracts bestselling authors and writers from across the Southeast, and May’s Arts and Wine Festival are two of the most prominent events the city hosts but not the only ones.

April’s Bear on the Square Mountain Festival draws bluegrass and old-time music fans to the historic public square for a weekend of pickin’ and grinnin’ plus workshops, dancing, auctions, children’s activities, and a Sunday morning Gospel jam. October 2024 will mark Dahlonega’s 70th annual Gold Rush Days to celebrate the city’s past and the city’s old-fashioned celebration of Christmas from Thanksgiving to mid-January earned designation as “one of the best Christmas towns in the United States” from Yahoo Life.

Of course, with so many events and attractions, lodging and dining are key ingredients to the city’s success. There are ample upscale hotels, cozy bed-and-breakfasts, cabins, campgrounds and retreats. And food? Practically every culinary option is on the menu, ranging from fine dining to casual gourmet to down-home cooking

If you visit during the warmer months, make sure to include a trip to the Gold Museum followed by an afternoon of panning for gold in one of the cool streams. Like me, you may not find any nuggets — but you’ll leave with a lifetime of golden memories.

Information

– Tom Wood

Yea, Sewanee’s right!

An hour and a half southeast of Nashville, the small Tennessee town of Sewanee makes for an exceptional day trip away from Nashville’s gridlock and madness.

Up on the elevated section that traverses Middle Tennessee, the Cumberland Plateau, Sewanee sits atop Monteagle Mountain, home to the University of the South.

Hard to beat a walk in woods, whether it’s Sewanee, North Georgia or the Smokies.

-- Photograph Provided

The area, often called the Sewanee Domain, also has 65 miles of trails. The Tennessee Williams Trail is a 1.25-mile easy loop that barely gets the heart going but is a pleasant hike. The playwright donated his estate to the university as a memorial to his grandmother.

The university’s signature trail, great for mountain biking (and youth) is the Perimeter Trail, a 20-mile loop that has views from atop the Cumberland Plateau. The Bridal Veil Falls trail switches back and forth between steep slopes and flat paths leading off the plateau to a waterfall.

If all of that seems too much, take a stroll through Abbo’s Alley, a lush ravine garden in the middle of campus. The Carlos Gallery in the Nabit Art Building hosts works by nationally and internationally recognized artists, as well as student art.

The bookstore (remember those?) on campus also carries popular titles along with textbooks and a number of places to get off your feet and read. If inclined, grab the latest edition of the Sewanee Review, the nation’s oldest continuously published literary quarterly. Many of the writers come through the university or through the annual Sewanee Writers Conference held each summer.

The public is welcome to wander the very formal campus built in 1857 (or thereabouts); the school’s architecture, Collegiate Gothic (as in Yale or Princeton), brings people to peruse the campus from across the region.

Building entrances have recessed entrances lit by sconces, gothic arches and quoining around the windows, all of which transports visitors to another time and another place, in my case the Ivy League education I never knew I wanted.

And I’m not religious, but the school’s soaring All Saints’ Chapel with its late Gothic Revival architecture is surely worth the drive alone; the stained glass took nine years to complete, one “triptych” per year.

I took in the chapel’s annual Festival of Lessons and Carols during Christmas a few years back and never forgot the feeling that a certain kind of architecture is its own praise, which was, of course, the point in building the chapel.

The campus and tiny town (pop 2,625) come alive for the Christmas season, certainly, but they also really gear up for the Fourth of July with a brass quintet, a solidly earnest parade and, of course, fireworks and food.

The Fourth at Sewanee can’t really be quantified. It is at once a festival that celebrates the holiday, but also the summer atop Monteagle Mountain. Poet William Alexander Percy wrote, “It is so beautiful that people who have once been there always, one way or another, come back.”

– Colleen Creamer

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